Muslim Morocco has a bit of a twist with respect to both Islam and nationality, especially in Marrakech.
If you're in a shop and get to talking (or even having tea) with the shop owner you'll find that when the subject of nationality comes up being Arab is not something he may want to associate himself with. Often he'll tell you forthright, front and center, that he is Berber.
Islam was spread by Arabs throughout North Africa around 700. It was the Berbers, the nomads of the desert, that were the first to pick up the new religion.
Today, there's a struggle to maintain the Berber culture, one that, in some quarters, resists "Arabization."
Is Berber Better?
In some regards yes. Under Berber rule women have more rights. The culture also considers itself to be more free, according to one shop owner I met in Marrakech. Indeed, there is symbolism that describes how Berbers live, moving around freely and doing what they want. It's inscribed on many items that you can buy in the markets in the Medina (old town) section of Marrakech. On the downside, Berbers are not looked highly upon in the prevalent Arab society of Morocco. More here.
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